Select the Right Bit
By: Rosanne Boettiger
republished with permission of HorsePower
Have you ever wondered exactly how that metal device in your horse’s mouth works? Does it hurt him? Are you using the right type? Are there different bits you should use for different events?
If you are showing your horse, then you have already been introduced into the world of “bit correctness”. There are certain bits allowed for certain events. For example, Futurity horses are to be worked in only a snaffle. Horses entered in Western Pleasure are required to use curb bits or hackamores. You couldn’t use the same type of bit on a barrel racer that you would for show jumping.
But have you noticed that there are so many types of each bit? Snaffles alone can be found in nearly a dozen or more styles. And then there are kimberwickes, curbs with low ports or high ports, pelhams, and bradoons - not to mention elevator and gag bits that are used by professionals to cure certain problems. And then there are the “bitless” devices, such as bosals, hackamores, and mechanical hackamores. It’s so confusing! How can you know which bit would be the best for your horse?
Let’s start by explaining the different types of bits and how each works:
SNAFFLE BITS
A true snaffle is jointed at the centre, with rings only and no shanks. (Shanks are the long sidepieces attached to bits.) The rings on snaffle bits serve more than one purpose. The headstall and reins attach to them, and they keep the bit from pulling through the horse’s mouth.
A snaffle comes in many styles. The thicker the mouthpiece, the “softer” the bit. (Softer means easier on the horse’s mouth). However, it is possible to get a mouthpiece too thick to properly fit in the horse’s mouth.
As a rule, a thinner mouthpiece is harsher. A twisted-wire mouthpiece is harsher yet. A slow twist is just a couple of turns in the mouthpiece, like a corkscrew. A thin, double twisted-wire snaffle is a bit that can be very hard on a horse’s mouth, even if it is just a snaffle. On the other hand, a smooth, thick, medium weight snaffle will be very kind.
Full cheek snaffles have rings with long stems that protrude from both the top and the bottom. These safety bars keep the bit from pulling through the horse’s mouth.
A fixed ring can help avoid pinching the corners of the horse’s mouth, but a loose ring snaffle gives greater control and a more sensitive feel. You can pull on only one side of the horse’s mouth at a time if you want, isolating the command you are giving.
Snaffles that have an extra centrepiece that is jointed on both sides are called “French mouth” snaffles. This type of bit is designed to shift the bit pressure away from the lips toward the centre of the horse’s tongue, but it still offers a greater amount of control.
The material the bit is made of from is also important. Copper causes a horse to salivate, helping him accept the bit. Apple flavoured plastic mouths make the bit more appealing, which a green horse will accept more readily. Rollers and French mouths encourage the horse to “mouth” the bit, therefore accepting its pressure. German silver is made from a combination of copper, brass and nickel. These create saliva in the horse’s mouth and have a pleasant taste. However, for horses with nickel allergies, there is a line of bits manufactured with nickel-free alloys.
CURB BITS
A curb bit is a bit that has shanks. Whether or not the mouthpiece is solid or jointed does not matter; it is the shanks that change how the bit works.
A pelham is a type of curb, but allows for rein placement at either the end of the shank, or directly at the bar, such as a snaffle does, or both. This rein placement changes the effect of the bit.
A curb works on the “lever” effect. That means for every pound of pressure put on the shank of the bit, a greater amount of pressure is transferred to the horse’s mouth. It’s sort of the same idea as using a long board to move a really heavy rock. That is why curbs are considered a much harsher bit. Unlike a snaffle – which you can pull on hard when needed and the amount you pull is exactly the amount the horse feels – the curb can magnify the pressure you put on the reins by nearly ten times in the horse’s mouth, depending on the length of the shank. Curb bits need a curb strap, or chin strap, which puts pressure on the chin and makes the bit effective. Without the chinstrap, the curb bit is useless.
The shorter the shank, the less the lever effect, and the longer the shanks, the harsher the effect. So a curb with a thicker mouthpiece and very short shanks can still be an effective and fairly light bit in the right hands. Some “walking horse” bits have shanks up to ten inches long, and should only be used by professionals, as incorrect usage can actually damage the nerves in a horse’s mouth.
The mouthpiece in a curb bit can vary from a jointed or snaffle-type, or a solid (mullen mouth), or a port. A port mouthpiece is one that has a raised bar. A low port is easier on the tongue than a high port. When you pull on the reins, the port presses on the tongue and the bit turns in the mouth, the port pressing on the roof of the mouth. Combined with long shanks, a high port bit can be very punishing. They are used to control only the most hard-mouthed horses, or to teach a horse to drop and tuck his head
The shanks of show curbs can be extremely fancy. Some are intricately carved and others are inlaid with gold or silver. It’s not unusual to find a show person who has matched their curb bit to the inlay on their saddle.
Kimberwickes are bits that work nearly the same as a snaffle in that they do not have shanks, and the pressure is put directly at the edge of the mouth. They do have the added effect of a chinstrap, which is a added controlling feature. They can have jointed, mullen mouth, or port mouthpieces.
A gag bit is another bit that should only be used by experts. The bit works on a sliding method, so when you pull on the reins, the bit both applies pressure and is lifted higher into the mouth. This puts extra pressure on the mouth the higher the bit is lifted.
HACKAMORES & BOSALS
Hackamores, bosals, and mechanical hackamores work on a different pressure method than bits. A true hackamore does not have any bars in the mouth, although there are combination hackamore/snaffle rigs.
A hackamore works off of pressure applied to the horse’s nose, chin, cheek, and poll. Nosepieces are made from braided rawhide, flat leather straps, sheepskin-padded leather, and even rubber-covered chains.
The length of the shank works the same as it did with the curb. The longer the shank, the greater the amount of pressure on the parts of the face. The nosepiece takes the greatest amount of pressure; therefore, the type of nosepiece makes a difference to how harsh the hackamore will be.
A regular hackamore normally has short shanks which are attached directly to the nosepiece (usually a leather strap). Mechanical hackamores have longer shanks, which are attached differently to the nosepiece, giving it a somewhat jointed effect at the cheeks. Both types of hackamores also need a chinstrap to function. Without a chinstrap, the shanks would just pull backwards without ever putting pressure on the nose.
A bosal works on a little bit different method than hackamores. It does not have shanks to which the reins are attached on either side of the horse’s mouth. A bosal is usually woven from braided horsehair into a hard loop that slips over the nose, a headstall to hold it in place, and a large knot beneath the chin. The reins come directly from the knot beneath the chin, and are part of the bosal nosepiece.A cowboy’s bosal was often a source of pride, especially if he had woven it himself. Sometimes bosals have rawhide or rolled leather nosepieces with reins of leather or horsehair.
Since the bosal does not have shanks, it does not apply pressure to the cheeks as the hackamore does, although it does apply pressure to the nose and the chin. Being kinder than a hackamore and without the effect of a bit, a horse working in a bosal must be very well trained and obedient.
All of these things can help you decide which is right for your horse - but the rest depends on you. There isn’t a bit “soft” enough in the world if you jerk and abuse your horse’s mouth. Have you noticed a horse’s lips are sensitive enough to pick up tiny hay leaves from the ground and avoid the dirt? Se be kind to your horse, and watch your hands.
FITTING BITS
In order for any bit to work correctly, it needs to be positioned correctly in the mouth. There is a space towards the back of the horse’s mouth that contains no teeth. This is where the bit should sit.
A properly fitted bit will cause one or two wrinkles at the corners of the mouth. The bit should also fit lengthwise across the mouth. The rings of a snaffle bit should fit flatly against the sides of the mouth. A bit which is too small will be obvious because the lips will cover part of the rings. With too large a bit, the rings will not lay flat against the mouth, but will cause a gap.
An ill-fitting bit will cause discomfort for the horse, such as pinching at the sides of the mouth. This can lead to the horse evading the bit pressure by ducking or bobbing his head, trying to grab the bit in his teeth, or constant pulling. Sometimes an incorrectly fitted bit will cause the horse to put its head in the air in an attempt to avoid contact and the resulting pain. If you have this problem with your horse, check how the bit sits in his mouth. When the bit is in place, open the horse’s mouth (be careful of those teeth!) and check to see that the bit is not banging on his teeth. If it is clear, and the edges do not pinch, or the bit is not too big and slides back and forth, then check the bit itself for any rough spots. All it takes is one small sharp spot on a bit to put a normally agreeable animal “off”.
The other important factor in a correctly fitted bit is the headstall. Make sure it is not too tight behind the ears, as it will pinch the tender area at the poll. You should be able to get at least four fingers into the throat latch when it is strapped. If the throat latch is too tight, then the horse’s airflow will be cut off when he tries to lower his head. The noseband should not be too tight either. Being able to put two fingers inside once it is fastened is the rule. A dropped noseband, such as a figure-eight or flash, will help keep the bit stabilized in the horse’s mouth, and rubber bit guards can be used to prevent pinching or rubbing.
A well-fitted bit will be an asset in your hands, and make your horse happier and much more pleasant to ride.
Outfitting your horse can be a confusing situation, but the more you study your equipment and how your horse works in it, the more experienced you’ll become as an equestrian. As you can see, different horses require different tack according to their temperament, training, and the rider’s level of skill and confidence.
And that means knowing more than just the equipment. It means knowing your horse, too!
Loretta
the natural horseman
clear communication/visible results
Image via WikipediaThis is a nice picture of a hunter over fences.
The practice of Leading From Behind™ brings the horse a sense of belonging. With practice, it will help your horse to listen to his bonding instincts. A horse that gets to practice his instincts receives well being and enthusiasm for life and builds a healthy ego. From the practice of Leading From Behind we are returning a horse to his roots, and his understanding of life as a herd animal, like letting a bird out of a cage to fly. When a horse accepts Leading From Behind, it causes a horse to trust you more because Leading From Behind is a herd behavior.
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